The Perfect Fort

Younis has entered the age of forts. Imad and I are excited to create that perfect fort with all the pillows in the traditional Moroccan living room. Younis has been enjoying it too of course.

Jamon, Jamon, Jamon

Spain was amazing. I had so much fun visiting, walking, eating, drinking, touring, sleeping, reading and generally hanging out. It was a much needed vacation and while I was more than ready to see Imad and Younis by the end, I was not ready to leave Madrid. I wish they could've come up to spend some time together in Madrid. It's funny how once you have a kid, you have a different lens to check out your surroundings. I was eyeing the playgrounds and parks imagining what Younis would think....

Even though I'd been to Spain before, I always am caught off guard by the massive amounts of ham.

One of our many tostas, this one from a local favorite spot near the weekly Sunday flea market. I won't tell you which one is mine.....

Beautiful architecture.

Madrid

My trip to Madrid is coming to an end, I go home tomorrow. It has been such a wonderful time being here on my own, visiting my friend and relaxing, eating, drinking and wandering the beautiful city. I have walked A LOT the past few days but that's what I really love doing most when I visit a new place, just wander around and experience the city. It is amazing how close Morocco and Spain are and while there are some similarities in culture, food, architecture (especially in the south of Spain), what strikes me are the differences. The different state religions of Morocco and Spain make a big difference.

Number one difference, the "jamon", beer and wine. Spanish cuisine has an abundance of ham, sausage and other pork offerings... not to be found in Morocco. Along with the food comes beer and/or wine, beer served in small glasses and very inexpensive. Lots of tapas also big on seafood. While there are lots of restaurants in Morocco, dining as an outing and experience is much more a part of Spanish culture. Around lunch time (2:00 and after), these little bar/cafe/restaurants are packed with groups of people enjoying the gastronomical and social experience of eating and drinking. My friend has taken me to some delicious restaurants, Gallician cuisine, amazing pizza, good strong coffee, yesterday we had to take a break with some lighter salad and tostas because our stomachs were suffering from all the rich yumminess.

As someone who grew up in the United States and has spent a fair amount of time in Europe and Morocco, I always feel a certain sense of freedom in Europe that I miss in Morocco. While Morocco has changed drastically in the past 10 years and especially for women, there is less harassment and such, there are still days where I feel a sense of dread walking around on my own. I still feel watched or followed at times and spend energy focusing on looking straight ahead, avoiding eye contact etc. Again, I want to reiterate that I feel all this much less than in the past, but here in Spain, it's nice to wander and walk around, have a coffee by myself and in my experience feel completely at ease.

I'm planning to post some pictures once I get back to Morocco and will share in more details some of the beautiful sites we visited. I'm so excited to see Younis. Thank god for Skype. We've been chatting everyday. Yesterday was peek-a-boo on Skype popping in and out of the screen. He's been having a fun time with Imad, but I would venture to say that they're both more than ready for me to come home. As my "mommy vackay" as my friend calls it comes to a close, I'm off for a cafe con leche at a nearby cafe. While I miss Younis, it's nice to rediscover what it's like to drink coffee, eat a meal, walk around without interruption!

Going on a Trip

I'm leaving tomorrow for a solo trip to Madrid to visit a college friend and get some rest from my usual routine. This is my birthday present to myself. I know I'm going to miss my family, but I think it's important for us all to take time for ourselves in whatever way feels right. Younis is constantly asking when Imad or I am gone, even for just a few minutes, "where baba go?" or "where mama go?" so I'm sure Imad will have to listen to that a lot for the next few days. Whenever we go on a trip, we have a little song, "we're going on a trip, we're going on a trip, we're going on a trip trip trip trip trip." I'm sure I'll be humming it to myself on the plane.

Bananas

Today we took a real live train with Younis for the first time ever. This boy talks about "choo choos" nonstop so this was an exciting moment. I think Imad and I may have been more excited at the prospect of going on a train ride with Younis than how it all played out in reality. We had to go to Casablanca (about 45 minutes by train from Rabat) because unbeknownst to me until yesterday, I had to go in person to purchase my plain ticket to Madrid for this coming Friday! Good thing I called. Side note, Casablanca is nothing like in the movie. It's an overcrowded, bustling, polluted and busy capitol city with some nice areas, but not a historically significant city in Morocco until recently.

The initial time at the train station in Rabat was exciting. Waiting on the quai, exciting. First getting on the train, exciting. But after about 5-8 minutes, the excitement started wearing off and Younis was ready to run around which is easier on a train than plane, but still challenging, especially when everyone was abnormally quiet so it felt like we had to keep Younis quiet too. I hate that!

We only were in Casablanca briefly than back on the choo choo. The ride back, Younis was pretty much over the excitement of the train and we kept him busy with other entertainment.

This afternoon, we had a doctor's appointment for Younis to check his ears (all good!) and then went to Tour Hassan hoping to run around a bit. However, we were unprepared and Younis wanted a banana like nobody's business. Of course, no stores nearby so we headed out in search of nanas.

Traffic was a nightmare so we kept ourselves focused chanting:

What do we want: NANA

When do we want it: NOW

It was surprisingly hard to find that banana, but finally, the moment Younis was waiting for arrived and he downed almost two bananas.

Speaking of bananas, Younis and his cousin Yasmina drove us a little bananas yesterday. The real question, why do we do things that we know are such a bad decision. Yesterday, it was driving with a full car, both of the toddlers and four adults to a mall to run errands in hellish traffic. Why?? Very bad decision, will not do that again!

La Foret Nouzhat Ibn Sina

Not far from where we live in Rabat, there is a wonderful park called La Foret Nouzhat Ibn Sina also referred to as "la foret Hilton" because it is right next to a large hotel that is now Sofitel but used to be the Hilton. La foret has a loop around that I would guess is about 3-4 kilometers. The park has lush green grass and what I believe are eucalyptus trees that provide shade. There are a couple little cafes, this rock structure for climbing, a little area for kids to practice riding bikes and open areas for soccer, stretching or other activities. This is one place where people can go and be left alone for the most part. When I walk around the park by myself, I don't feel like I have to be as aware of my surroundings or that I'm being watched as I do sometimes on the streets of Rabat, although I have to say it is so much better than when I lived here 10 or so years ago.

Here are a few things that make this park so different from a park in the states:

At the main entrance to the park is a beautiful mosaic structure where people can drink water. There's a metal cup to fill water from the spout. This is a shared cup, yes shared. And people use it. Can you imagine a shared cup among random people in the states? Never.

Not sure if this well actually works, but there is a well next to the water spout. Still need to investigate the function of the well.

This isn't really so different, just a cool addition, this post which says in English, French, Arabic: May Peace Prevail On Earth.

Yesterday was my birthday. I had a wonderful day which started out after breakfast and some morning time with Younis and Imad, with a peaceful walk at La Foret. Being Sunday morning, it was packed!! There were so many people there and it was so alive. This birthday may have been my first birthday ever spent in beautiful, warm nearly 80 degree weather. It was gorgeous. As I was walking around the park, I reached this one spot where there is a stage and a big banner promoting exercise. I'd never seen anything happening on the stage, but yesterday, there was a woman leading stretches and aerobic exercise. As I turned the corner and saw the crowd I was so overwhelmed with emotion. It's these little things that move me because there was this huge crowd of people participating and this loud, fun music and you could just feel the energy. What moved me is the sense of community, that anyone can participate, the more the merrier and it's free to the public. There was a mix of men and women, some wearing the hijab and others not, children, all ages. Can't wait to join in one of these Sundays.

Stand with Haiti

Tour Hassan

Yesterday, Imad and I went on a field trip to Tour Hassan in Rabat. I copied some background information about this historic site from another blogger (Moroccan Meanderings):

Tour Hassan, or the Hassan Tower, refers to the 44 metre high unfinished minaret that was to be the highest in the Muslim world when it was begun in 1195. Both the minaret and mosque were to remain unfinished due to the death of Yacoub al-Mansour, the ruler at the time. The mosque itself was destroyed by the earthquake of 1755 that also caused so much damage to Lisbon. Besides the minaret, all that remains today are the mosque pillars.

Adjoining the mosque ruins, is the more recently constructed Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the grandfather of the present king, Mohammed VI. Completed in 1971, this ornate marble structure has interior walls covered in zellij where tiny tiles are combined into mosaics that form intricate geometric patterns. Above the domed ceiling has ornately carved wood with coloured glass inserts. Whilst admiring all the wonderful decoration, it is worthwhile looking down onto the onyx tomb of Mohammed V in the centre of the room, while off to the side is his son, the previous king, Hassan II.

Tour Hassan is a beautiful spot with amazing ruins that still feel very much alive in the middle of this vibrant city. Can't wait to bring Younis here to run around the remnants of the pillars. Perfect for some hide and seek. I especially liked the well-dressed guards!

On another note, thinking lots about the heartbreaking events in Haiti. Imad and I have been watching lots of CNN to stay connected and aware, it's not always easy to stay on top of news here. These catastrophic events really put life into perspective. Still amazed and grateful at how the internet and mobile technology make it possible to stay connected, informed and help so quickly.

Little Girl

I know I'm biased, but this video is unbearably cute. Younis is talking up a storm these days. Lots of words and phrases we recognize, in English and some in Arabic, and lots of Nouni lingo, a babble of sounds that make up their own distinct language.

In Agadir, Younis danced away the evening with an adorable little girl around his age. Most of the people at the hotel were retired tour groups from Germany, England or France. Because of the timing and most kids heading back to school, there were only a few little ones around. They made the most of it though. During those few days, Younis mastered the term little girl and since has started saying big and little for a lot of different things. It's amazing watching him start to put words together into sentences, even in Arabic. Younis says "Aji mama aafek" which means mama come here please. Irresistible!

A Toast to R & R

I'm having a lazy Sunday at home. I found a wifi connection somewhere nearby that is password free so have been spending way too much time surfing the internet reading random sites and blogs which inspired me to post today. Imad took Younis for the afternoon to visit a cousin who recently had a baby and as Moroccan days go, who knows where else the day will take them. I keep trying to motivate myself to get out and go for a walk, but there is something so nice about being in a quiet home just twiddling around that I can't quite get up and go. Plus, it's another crazy weather day with winds, rainstorms then sunny moments that tease you into thinking you'll stay dry, but I don't trust it.

Even though it's probably about 60 degrees outside, it is cold as he** in our apartment. I took a hot shower and ate hot food and then saw steam from my breath for a good 20 minutes. I have finally acclimated and am steam free now.

I've decided while in Morocco not to drive. I will admit to being a passive Seattle driver that would very likely get eaten alive on the streets of Rabat. I miss driving and at times feel like I should take the plunge and give it a try, which I may someday although our current car being my father-in-law's is yet another deterrent. If anything happened to that car, I would never hear the end of it!

Morocco has les petits taxis which are a great way to get around town. Each city's taxis come in a different color. Rabat - Blue. Marrakech - Tan. Agadir - Orange, etc. etc. I love petits taxis, but on this lazy day am not even motivated to hop in one of those.... I crave time like this, but once I have it spend a chunk of it wondering what I should be doing to take utmost advantage of it. Such an American way to think.

Well, to anyone reading this random post, a toast to rest and relaxation. We all need it and for most of us it comes in short supply so take advantage of these moments when they come.

Freshness

Mint tea waiting to be served

Calamari, Shrimp and Fish

Shefinge

The Long Trek Home

Yesterday we drove 9 long hours back to Rabat, that's including several stops for a certain someone to run around a while. Younis did amazingly well all things considered. The weather was crazy coming home. Sun and intense rain showers that made for some of the most beautiful rainbows I've every seen. I contemplated the pot of gold theory and why a rainbow starts and ends where it does. We returned to rainstorms and wind in Rabat. It feels cold.

We had a lovely time in Agadir. Rabat is feeling more like home now, but I'm realizing that our apartment just will never have that really homey feeling and we're not here long enough to make it feel homier. There was something about coming "home" though that made me homesick for my real home.

Agadir Highlights

Somehow, we had spent all this time in Agadir without really exploring the beach with Younis so yesterday was beach time. It was a windy day and there were a lot of surfers out. It's an expansive beautiful beach.

We're staying in a hotel more in the central part of the town now. Every night, they have some sort of entertainment. One night we saw acrobats break the hotel chandelier, woops. Then another night was a traditional middle eastern dancer spinning around with drums and a skirt that had lights attached to it.

We have met some travelers at the hotel and spent some time with a nice Irish family that has two kids, one exactly Younis' age. I love the little differences in language. In Irish, diapers are nappies and babysitters are child minders and I was asked if we want to have another go at it meaning another kid. Love it. Younis also met another cute little girl last night that he danced the night away with. They even gave eachother a big hug and smooch so full of passion they both tumbled to the ground.

Check out the sign below. It's our beloved choo choo train. I love finding these interesting translations.

Travel Moments

In the 1960’s, a huge earthquake destroyed almost all of Agadir except a cinema so the city is all fairly new construction unlike in most other Moroccan cities where you find the old medina. We visited a fortress type area with an amazing view of the city. Younis mostly enjoyed pushing his stroller and getting very upset when we refused him that pleasure. Traveling with a toddler both tests one’s patience and teaches the value of being flexible and open to changing plans and schedules! On the other hand, a nap midday to relax and rejuvenate is not such a bad thing, as long as the nap actually happens. That’s what the rest of the traveling crew is currently doing.

Today, Younis took a train ride. Well sort of, a tour car type train to visit the city. It was pretty cute when we first got on he kept repeating “Nouni (his name for himself) choo choo ride” and pointing to himself. A proud moment.

In Younis’ spare time, we were excited to see his entrepreneurial side emerge. Looks like he has started a thriving fish restaurant and car rental shop.

We’ve decided to stay a few days more in Agadir and not go to Marrakech which is a very exciting and beautiful city, but a little harder to manage with a little one all the crowds and craziness. Agadir is so laid back with big promenades and lots of nice outdoor cafes and restaurants. Cheers to our travels in Agadir.

Happy New Year

Happy New Year! To health, happiness, peace and adventures in this coming year.

We celebrated here in Agadir. Younis made it till 10 pm (along with his mama... couldn't hold out till midnight this year). We had a super relaxing day though. Imad's cousin works as the "directrice" at this amazing therapeutic spa complete with a pool full of massage jets and lots of other spa goodies. We got a special deal on the pool and a full hammam treatment which included steam room and scrub. We brought in the new year the cleanest we've felt in months! And today we all had a massage which was a delightful start to the new year.

Last night, at the hotel where the spa is located, they were having lots of new years festivities so we listened to some traditional Moroccan Gnawa music. Younis absolutely LOVED it. You can all see for yourself in the video at the end of this post. He was dancing around the hotel and since it wasn't too crowded yet he was by far number one music fan and got some love back from the musicians. We ventured out for dinner but post spa and hammam, and with little sleep for a couple nights in a row, I was exhausted and literally passed out along with Younis at 10. I don't know if it's being in Morocco and far from the usual routine of life that I'm used to, but this New Years felt more light than usual. I don't feel that same pressure to come up with the perfect resolutions. New Years felt festive, but without all the ads and media messages I'm used to in the U.S. pushing me to make it something I'll never forget.

This morning we were greeted by a family of peacocks, two males and a few females. They are beautiful up close, but I don't trust them. Those are big birds! We went for a nice walk at the marina, any sailors out there, this is a prime destination. We soaked in lots of sun and greeted 2010 ready for more adventures.